diff --git a/www/docs/repairlcd.t b/www/docs/repairlcd.t new file mode 100644 index 0000000000..0233b68f97 --- /dev/null +++ b/www/docs/repairlcd.t @@ -0,0 +1,126 @@ +#define _PAGE_ Repair Your LCD +#include "head.t" + +
+Author: Peter van Hardenberg + +My LCD screen broke, I know I'm not alone, so at dwihno's suggestion, I'm +typing up this information so everyone else can benefit too. + +Okay, your LCD is broken, but the 'box still works. Now what? + +PART 1: Getting a new screen. + +You're going to need a new LCD, but odds are you don't have a clue where +to get one. + +Part number: G112064-30 +Manufacturer: Shing Yih Technologies, Taiwan + +Unless you're buying a few hundred, I don't think Shing Yih is going to +listen to you. Instead, I recommend you shop at: + +http://www.newmp3technology.com/ + +For me, a replacement LCD was $24USD with shipping. (Archos wants $60 +minimum just to look at it.) + +PART 2: Disassembling the Frame + +This is written up well on the rockbox site, but you will need a #10 Torx +bit (check your hardware store) and a small Phillip's head screwdriver to +take the box apart. + +http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble.html + +PART 3: Desoldering + +There are a total of eight points you will need to desolder. They are +three on each side of the metal frame holding the electronics, and two at +the top end. The side points are structural, but the top two (which are on +either side of the microphone) supply power to the hard drive. I am not +going to tell you how to desolder a joint. That is up to you. I found it +helpful to use a small tool to lift up the joints as I worked, seperating +the side ones individually and then gradually working out the top ones. I +certainly hope you are more competant at desoldering than I. + +The two electronics boards inside the Archos are connected by a paralell +connector, much like the one you find on the back of your hard drives, +though without the cable. This is why even desoldered the boards will +stick together. Carefully seperate the two boards. They are connected by +several wires. Don't break them. + +NOTE: The two connections at the top (by the microphone) have wires +embedded in them. This won't make your life any easier. + +NOTE: If you remove the tape in the battery compartment while you work, +make sure you replace it with something afterwards! (A couple strips of +simple scotch tape worked for me.) + +BE CAREFUL not to break the end boards off while you work! + +Again, the rockbox site has some handy pictures, though this section is +for the non-recorder model and is a bit uninformative. + +http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble2.html + +PART 3: The New LCD + +Remove the old LCD cable. There are two little clips (one on each side of +the connector) that can be gently pushed out to free the strip connector. +When you put the new LCD in, make sure you have the right orientation +(duh) and also make sure the connection is tight before you clip it back +down. This part is probably the easiest of the whole affair. Be careful +with the plastic frame under the LCD, as it seems a bit fragile. + +PART 4: Test! + +Don't solder it all back together yet. Re-seat the top electronics board +so the parallel connector is snug. (Watch out for those pins by the +microphone! Now you can plug the unit into the AC adapter to see if the +LCD works. You should get a message on the LCD saying "ATA Error" or +something to that effect. This means the LCD is sitting correctly and you +can proceed to reassemble. If not, go back to part 3. + +PART 5: Resolder + +UNPLUG the archos. (Just thought I'd better reiterate.) + +Resolder the two top connections (the ones by the mic). + +PLUG the archos back in. The hard drive should spin up. Nothing much more +will happen until you put the batteries in though. (I think, I can't quite +remember.) + +Okay, good. Unplug the Archos again. + +IMPORTANT: When you resolder the frame points, make sure you don't leave +any pointy bits of solder poking into where the batteries run. I did, and +they scraped the plastic off my batteries, shorted out against the frame, +melted the inside of one of the bumpers a bit (smoking and smelling +awfully) and just about scared me to death. This is also why you need to +put the tape back on if you removed it. + +PART 6: Reassemble the Archos! + +Put the archos back together, taking care not to bend anything. The rubber +bumpers are tricky, but I think there are some notes on the rockbox site +about how to put them on the right way. + +Victory at last! You're done! Now go to the rockbox site and update your +firmware, I bet it's out of date! + +CONCLUSION + +In the end, this cost me much less than sending it in to someone +qualified, but was also a hell of a lot scarier. I think I learned a few +things about my Archos though, and I look forward to trying some of the +other mods. + +I'm sure there are people out there (real pros) who are horrified at what +I have written. Please, correct any mistakes I have made in this document +so future 'boxers don't have to go through the hours of stress and strain +I did. + ++#include "foot.t"